Saturday, May 5, 2012

Mystery Dinner


So this was my dinner tonight. One fresh tomato, a plate of mixed, stir-fry veggies (mainly cabbage and carrots), and mystery fish. The tomato was WONDERFUL. It was perfectly ripe and had an amazing smell that just said "summer." The veggies were so-so, a little boring but fine enough. The real interesting thing of the night was the plate of fish. I don't know how they were cooked, I don't know what they were, but apparently they're a specialty of St Petersburg. Being right near the Gulf of Finland and the Baltic Sea, it makes sense that Petersburg has its own special fish cuisine. I don't think they were herring, but maybe a cousin of herring?

Before...

...and After.
Salty, but good. You know how much of a battle it is to get to the meat when eating wings? Multiply that battle by a thousand and you've got my dinner experience trying to eat these tiny fishies.


UPDATE: The fish is apparently called "Karyushka" which means "Smelt" in English. Not that that clarified things much, but now I know!

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

The difference between St Petersburg & Moscow (Made Simple)

Moscow    
St Petersburg

All you have to do is look at their respective metro maps to figure out the biggest difference between the two major Russian cities. I figured out how to get around on the Moscow Metro, but it definitely took me a few trips to really get it. St Petersburg was built on purpose and therefore is laid out on a grid like any regular planned city. Moscow, however, developed naturally around a city center and is basically a giant circle. Getting around Moscow is definitely more of a difficult task than it is here in Petersburg.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Some notes on Russian food

Welcome to Amanda's dinner table! (Well, Maria Nikolaevna's table, but after I ate dinner). As I write this post, it's almost 8:30pm and a little gloomy out. The sun has been setting later and later here, normally around 10pm, but today it's been raining so it's overcast and foggy. This picture is from a few days ago and I was able to convince myself to drink the tea that night. As it gets less frigid outside, it's harder for me to drink tea after dinner. 1) I don't like tea, and 2) I don't understand how people drink hot beverages every morning/evening and don't burn alive during the warmer months. On this particular night, I had stove-fried potatoes and a mixture of mushrooms, onions and sour cream. It's greasy, it's messy, it's delicious.

I wanted to comment a little on food, since I've experienced so many different edibles in these past few months. So here are my thoughts:
  • Americans should eat more beets. Borscht is actually really good and not at all like what I thought it would taste like.
  • Russians really like sugar wafer-like sweets. My host mom calls them vafly (waffles), but they're basically variations on sugar wafers. My favorite are the ones in this picture at the top left, which have a slight coffee taste to them. The other thing on the plate is a cherry marmalade candy, which could give you cavities just looking at it. It's a jelly-like substance made into a square, then covered in sugar. They are one of the very few foods I've had to turn down. I can and do eat foods here that I'm not crazy about, but this was one of the few things I just could not consume again.
  • Another thing on that short list of Foods I Cannot Eat Again - pickled tomatoes. I practically hugged my host mom when she gave me FRESH cucumbers with my dinner last night (and tonight again!) Russians have a long tradition of getting their winter veggies via pickled veggies, but I can barely stand them. I could stand the sour cucumbers (which weren't quite pickles, yet. Like they were removed before being fully pickle-fied), but the sour tomatoes lose all their wonderful flavor and just become soggy, vinegar-y lumps of evil.
  • Russians have a rare talent in that they can make flavorless cake. I've had cake at several different locations and I've yet to find out how they can make chocolate cake that tastes like it has no chocolate or sugar in it.
  • One of my absolute favorite foods at the school cafeteria (and in general in Russian cuisine) is Syeld Pod Shuboy, which translates roughly to Herring Under a Fur Coat. It sounds like the grossest thing ever and should thoroughly disgust me, but I tried it before I figured out what the name actually meant and loved it. It has this beautiful pink color on top of beets and mayo. Underneath that is herring, onion, mayo and who knows what else. When Russians do salads, it tends to be of the Potato Salad family, where it's a bunch of stuff mixed together with copious amounts of mayo. Another salad that I love here is Olivier salad, a traditional dish in Russian cuisine and frequently eaten on holidays (my host mother served it for Women's Day). It contains stuff like peas, carrots, egg, mayo, and ham all diced and mixed together. Both these salads are served cold.
    A very fancy picture of Herring Under a Fur Coat
  • Olivier Salad

Bird-watching in Bed

While I've been here, I've had fun watching a pair of ravens maintain a nest in a tree right outside my room. I can see the nest through the window while sitting in bed, like I am right now. The only downside is that this morning, for the first time, their cawing woke me up early. Still fun, though. I was thoroughly confused for a while because it's two ravens tending to the nest and I didn't think birds did that, but the Mommy Raven and the Daddy Raven build their home together. According to Wikipedia, "once paired, they tend to nest together for life, usually in the same location." I guess I'm easily amused, but I've enjoyed my bird-watching and find them totally adorable.

Sunday, March 25, 2012

My commute via the St Petersburg Metro

All subway systems are different and St Petersburg's is certainly different from others I've ridden. In keeping with posting pictures of where I live and study, I'd like to show what my metro journey is like for any curious parties back home.

First in my journey every day to school, I have a 20 minute walk to the metro station from my apartment. (You can find pictures of my walk to/from my apartment on Facebook in the Odds & Ends photo album).




If you can see on the map above, my metro station (Primorskaya) is at the very end of the Green Line on the left on Vasilevsky Island.










Escalators Down. St Petersburg's metro is one of the deepest in the world, so it takes about 3 minutes to get to the bottom or top of these escalators.







Waiting for a train at Primorskaya (Green Line)













Option 1 (Weekends): Getting off at Gostiny Dvor. Gostiny Dvor is the city center stop at Nevsky Prospekt. It's the stop you get off at for most major sights downtown.
















This is what the outside of the metro stop looks like. Gostiny Dvor loosely means "Merchant's Yard." It's basically a giant shopping mall.





Option 2 (School days): Getting off at Mayakovskaya to switch lines. It is named after the poet, Mayakovsky (who we are studying right now in my literature class! Even translated into English, he's quite...difficult). I see him every day in this awesome mural.











I love the red tile of this station.










After getting off at Mayakoskaya, I walk down some stairs then down a walkway to find Ploshchad Vosstaniya, the station I need to transfer to the Red Line.









I get off at my last stop at Chernyshevskaya Metro Station, which is nothing remarkable to look at. After exiting the metro up at ground level, I walk a short ways to a bus stop where I take the CIEE van the final short journey to Smolny (a branch of St Petersburg State University where I study).









This is what the metro cars look like. Russia puts a few warnings to not cross the yellow line into the Danger Zone, but they aren't as OCD as the British about minding the gap.









This is what the inside of a metro car looks like. The seats are open benches unlike the bus-style seating of, say, the DC metro. I like it though. There's more standing room, and you never have that awkward moment where you have to scoot out of an inside seat or get up for someone sitting in the window seat.




Below is a short video someone shot walking from the Primorskaya Metro exit to a bus stop. The bus stop isn't the direction I go after the station, but it does show some Marshrutkas at the end, which are shady looking vans that are one of the modes of public transportation here. (They are also what our CIEE van looks like that I take every morning).


If you want the full experience of riding the escalator up from a metro station, here's your chance! (Granted, this video was shot on a VERY slow day. Rush hour is an altogether different experience)

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

My class schedule

Monday
11:40 - 13:10 Grammar

I learn how to make more complex sentences while learning that verb aspect never gets any easier.

Tuesday
10:00 - 11:30 Comparative Politics: USA & Russia
11:40 - 13:10 Phonetics
13:50 - 15:20 Conversation

The politics course is definitely my favorite one and the one most similar to classes at home. We actually talk about things of substance...and then I get to go make noises in Phonetics class. Phonetics is all about learning how to accurately pronounce Russian words so we don't end up sounding like the American equivalents of Boris and Natasha. Conversation class is just that...we converse.

Wednesday
10:00 - 11:30 Literature

Due to time constraints, this is more of a poetry class right now. Poetry is also easier because we can read it in Russian rather than English. Considering poetry's not really my thing, I'm still enjoying this class.

Thursday
10:00 - 11:30 Comparative Politics: USA & Russia
11:40 - 13:10 Mass Media
13:50 - 15:20 Phonetics

In Mass Media, we spend a lot of time discussing random news stories and that's just alright by me. It's not very mentally demanding and I enjoy some good old-fashioned translation work every once in a while, especially with relevant news articles. Literature class educates me on obscure and abstract Russian words while Mass Media educates me on journalistic and commonly used Russian words.

Friday
10:00 - 11:30 Conversation
11:40 - 13:10 Lexicon
13:50 - 15:20 Grammar
15:30 - 17:00 Literature

On Fridays, we add the exciting/terrifying journey that is Lexicon (Лексика or Leksika, in Russian). In this course, we basically do busy work learning grammar. We've been going through a giant packet outlining lists of verbs for each case (dative, genitive, nominative, accusative, etc.). I can't entirely hate on a class where our homework exercises include references to Othello, The Godfather, and The Fifth Element, but it's not exactly fun either. Fridays are just difficult anyway, what with the four classes in a row at 90 minutes each.

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Excursion - Peter and Paul Fortress

On Saturday, March 17, we went on an outing to the Peter and Paul Fortress. It's one of the prominent landmarks and historical sites of Petersburg. It's a major image on the riverbank and has remained that way - no structure is allowed to be taller than the Peter and Paul Cathedral. This is even more understandable when you find out what's inside the cathedral...

Founded in 1703, it was used as a fortress against possible attacks from the Swedes, but came to fame later in the 1720s for its use as a prison for prominent political figures. Such historical figures as Dostoevsky, Trotsky, and even Peter the Great's own son were imprisoned here.

The Peter and Paul Cathedral, with its magnificent golden spire, is the resting place of almost every Russian tsar from Peter I to Alexander III (excluding Peter II). This includes the remains of the Romanov family.

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to show pictures and tell about my travels at the same time. Pictures are easier shown via Facebook, but I have more room to describe them on the blog. For now, I'm going to be a little crazy and post the link for my blog on Facebook while I post the link for the appropriate Facebook photo gallery on my blog. You can choose your own journey, so to speak! Click here for the Facebook photo gallery